Relief in Rome's heatwave found in an old-fashioned crushed ice dessert
In the heart of Rome, nestled near the Tiber River, a four-generation family business continues to serve a refreshing summer treat that harks back to the city's past. Massimo Crescenzi, a 72-year-old US tourist favourite, operates a kiosk dishing out grattachecca, a traditional Roman dessert.
The pronunciation of "grattachecca" might remind some of a scratchy sound, as it is "gratta-kekka". This hand-shaved ice treat, made by grating large blocks of ice and topping the delicate flakes with flavoured syrups, has been a crucial way for Romans to keep cool before the advent of modern refrigeration.
Massimo's youngest son lends a hand during the summer rush, ensuring the kiosk continues its long-standing business. Rosanna Mariani, Massimo's wife, prepares the grattachecca by pulling large blocks of ice, cracking them, and feeding them into a machine. The production of ice in factories has made things more efficient, but the artisanal touch of hand-shaving the ice remains an essential part of the grattachecca-making process.
The traditional Roman refreshment during heatwaves is a nostalgic and refreshing summer tradition. Its cooling and refreshing qualities, affordability, and cultural tradition make it more than just crushed ice — it’s a cherished summer ritual deeply embedded in Roman life. Available at many street kiosks, it is an inexpensive treat enjoyed by all ages.
The debate over using a machine to shave the ice or shaving it by hand for grattachecca continues in Rome. Massimo Crescenzi prefers using the machine for hygienic reasons, but purists argue that the traditional method preserves the authentic flavour and texture of the dessert.
Grattachecca is not the same as Sicilian granita, as water is combined with fruit and sugar from the outset and frozen together in granita. The origins of the name "grattachecca" might have originated from a story involving a nobleman and his servant named Francesca.
Fabien Torcol, a French tourist, recently enjoyed a coconut-lemon grattachecca, but found the pronunciation challenging. Andrea Alvarado, a 55-year-old Californian, savoured an exotically flavoured tamarind, mint, and black cherry grattachecca during her visit to Rome.
In the past, ice for grattachecca was transported from the Abruzzo mountains to Rome by carts. Today, the tradition continues, with vendors offering grattachecca near the river and in neighbourhoods like Trastevere, a historic area of Rome.
In summary, grattachecca is a traditional, artisanal shaved ice dessert rooted in Rome’s past that remains beloved for its refreshing nature, rich local flavour, and cultural significance during the hot summer months.
- The Crescenzi family business, featuring hand-shaved ice dessert called grattachecca, offers a blend of arts and lifestyle on the streets of Rome, personally managed by Massimo Crescenzi.
- Home-and-garden enthusiasts might find interest in the historical transportation of ice for grattachecca, as it was once transported from the Abruzzo mountains to Rome, turning this food-and-drink treat into a significant part of Roman life.
